Details... Zipped Shapes

The Very Simon G sporting a waxed cotton shirt with zipped black circle detailing by Martin Rose.

Details... Zipped Shapes

The Very Simon G sporting a waxed cotton shirt with zipped black circle detailing by Martin Rose.

Details... Zipped Shapes

The Very Simon G sporting a waxed cotton shirt with zipped black circle detailing by Martin Rose.

Unpicking the seams... Monsieur Lacenaire's Teddy Jacket

Earlier this summer, Susie returned from the Disneyland of menswear tradeshows that is Pitti Uomo, armed with a pocketful of business cards, a mind crammed full of rail tales and a number of SS12 product shots. As she hopped, skipped and jumped her way through the vast space her ever eager eye was scanning each stand and taking note of the real gems. One of the shiniest was Monsieur Lacenaire. With the unveiling of its debut collection for AW11, the menswear magpie in me had found its latest obsession.

Monsieur Lacenaire takes its name from the French poet and murderer, Pierre-François Lacenaire. Baudelaire called Lacenaire "one of the heroes of modern life" and the label's founder and designer, Garance Broca, expresses the refinement and anti conformist spirit of this Dandy villain with an assortment of reimagined classics.  Broca is above all else passionate about knitwear. After earning her stripes at luxurious houses including Balmain and Hermès, she decided to bring new elegance and folly to men’s fashion today. With an accent on luxurious materials, Broca revisits the classic male wardrobe and plays with age-old knit techniques (cable stitching, jacquard) throughout. Now, I would have happily unpicked the seams of any piece from the accomplished debut collection but the Teddy Jacket is the real star. Below, we take a closer look at the jacket and talk to the designer herself to see just how the knitwear talent put her stamp on this staple of American sportswear...

SS: How did you go about stamping your take on this staple of American sportswear?

Garance Broca: Making this piece in a soft and shiny Superfine Alpaca fabric has made it more sophisticated with a fine touch of tradition, also with the wooden buttons. It has the look of American sportwear but it is more like a little jacket or a cardigan. The fit is less chunky and less rigid.

SS: Could you talk us through some of the technical processes and people involved in making the jacket?

Garance Broca: I’ve tried a number of different knit techniques to have some of the traditional fitting. I wanted a slim fit but with chunkier sleeves. Also, to add a hint of classic knitwear, I added a cable in the back.

SS: Did you encounter any problems? How were they resolved?

Garance Broca: For the body part, I wanted a more elaborate stitch but it would have made the style too thick. Also, the contrast with the sleeves was not troublesome so in the end I decided that the simpleness of a reverse jersey would be both nice and light whilst the contrast with the full needle sleeves could be more relevant.

SS: Like all good menswear, the jacket oozes details. What are you favourites?

Garance Broca: I think my favorite is the cable in the back. This jacket is already strong as it is but the addition of the cable knit is the last detail that really makes a statement and declares 'I am knitted'!"

SS: How would you describe the finished piece in your own words?

Garance Broca: This is a piece where you can fell both different and safe. The look is totally trendy but the details of the wood buttons or cable at the back make it really special and unique, and ultimately make it Monsieur Lacenaire!

---------

"I love this jacket because it represent what is the new menswear : both casual and chic. It’s completely casual because it refers to college boy and sport; but in the meantime, it has become a classic item and it represent a high level class in America, so it can be seen as chic."

Garance Broca on her love for the Teddy Jacket

Look book shots courtesy of Monsieur Lacenaire

----------

'Classics with a twist' is one of those throwaway phrases (by designers and journalists alike) that is so over used that I'm loathed to ever use it on the pages of this blog. However, Monsieur Lacenaire's debut offering is one of those odd occasions where nothing else will do. As Broco reimagines wardrobe staples like the classic Varsity, there is a display of welcome playfulness and a covetable depth of detail. 

Now, we were not the only one to fall for the knitted charms of its debut with Selectism being one of the first blogs (way back in April) to shine the spotlight on the label and key retail locations snapping up the label. Mr Porter and Colette have both swooped and picked up key pieces for the winter season, including the Teddy Jacket.

Unpicking the seams... Monsieur Lacenaire's Teddy Jacket

Earlier this summer, Susie returned from the Disneyland of menswear tradeshows that is Pitti Uomo, armed with a pocketful of business cards, a mind crammed full of rail tales and a number of SS12 product shots. As she hopped, skipped and jumped her way through the vast space her ever eager eye was scanning each stand and taking note of the real gems. One of the shiniest was Monsieur Lacenaire. With the unveiling of its debut collection for AW11, the menswear magpie in me had found its latest obsession.

Monsieur Lacenaire takes its name from the French poet and murderer, Pierre-François Lacenaire. Baudelaire called Lacenaire "one of the heroes of modern life" and the label's founder and designer, Garance Broca, expresses the refinement and anti conformist spirit of this Dandy villain with an assortment of reimagined classics.  Broca is above all else passionate about knitwear. After earning her stripes at luxurious houses including Balmain and Hermès, she decided to bring new elegance and folly to men’s fashion today. With an accent on luxurious materials, Broca revisits the classic male wardrobe and plays with age-old knit techniques (cable stitching, jacquard) throughout. Now, I would have happily unpicked the seams of any piece from the accomplished debut collection but the Teddy Jacket is the real star. Below, we take a closer look at the jacket and talk to the designer herself to see just how the knitwear talent put her stamp on this staple of American sportswear...

SS: How did you go about stamping your take on this staple of American sportswear?

Garance Broca: Making this piece in a soft and shiny Superfine Alpaca fabric has made it more sophisticated with a fine touch of tradition, also with the wooden buttons. It has the look of American sportwear but it is more like a little jacket or a cardigan. The fit is less chunky and less rigid.

SS: Could you talk us through some of the technical processes and people involved in making the jacket?

Garance Broca: I’ve tried a number of different knit techniques to have some of the traditional fitting. I wanted a slim fit but with chunkier sleeves. Also, to add a hint of classic knitwear, I added a cable in the back.

SS: Did you encounter any problems? How were they resolved?

Garance Broca: For the body part, I wanted a more elaborate stitch but it would have made the style too thick. Also, the contrast with the sleeves was not troublesome so in the end I decided that the simpleness of a reverse jersey would be both nice and light whilst the contrast with the full needle sleeves could be more relevant.

SS: Like all good menswear, the jacket oozes details. What are you favourites?

Garance Broca: I think my favorite is the cable in the back. This jacket is already strong as it is but the addition of the cable knit is the last detail that really makes a statement and declares 'I am knitted'!"

SS: How would you describe the finished piece in your own words?

Garance Broca: This is a piece where you can fell both different and safe. The look is totally trendy but the details of the wood buttons or cable at the back make it really special and unique, and ultimately make it Monsieur Lacenaire!

---------

"I love this jacket because it represent what is the new menswear : both casual and chic. It’s completely casual because it refers to college boy and sport; but in the meantime, it has become a classic item and it represent a high level class in America, so it can be seen as chic."

Garance Broca on her love for the Teddy Jacket

Look book shots courtesy of Monsieur Lacenaire

----------

'Classics with a twist' is one of those throwaway phrases (by designers and journalists alike) that is so over used that I'm loathed to ever use it on the pages of this blog. However, Monsieur Lacenaire's debut offering is one of those odd occasions where nothing else will do. As Broco reimagines wardrobe staples like the classic Varsity, there is a display of welcome playfulness and a covetable depth of detail. 

Now, we were not the only one to fall for the knitted charms of its debut with Selectism being one of the first blogs (way back in April) to shine the spotlight on the label and key retail locations snapping up the label. Mr Porter and Colette have both swooped and picked up key pieces for the winter season, including the Teddy Jacket.

Unpicking the seams... Monsieur Lacenaire's Teddy Jacket

Earlier this summer, Susie returned from the Disneyland of menswear tradeshows that is Pitti Uomo, armed with a pocketful of business cards, a mind crammed full of rail tales and a number of SS12 product shots. As she hopped, skipped and jumped her way through the vast space her ever eager eye was scanning each stand and taking note of the real gems. One of the shiniest was Monsieur Lacenaire. With the unveiling of its debut collection for AW11, the menswear magpie in me had found its latest obsession.

Monsieur Lacenaire takes its name from the French poet and murderer, Pierre-François Lacenaire. Baudelaire called Lacenaire "one of the heroes of modern life" and the label's founder and designer, Garance Broca, expresses the refinement and anti conformist spirit of this Dandy villain with an assortment of reimagined classics.  Broca is above all else passionate about knitwear. After earning her stripes at luxurious houses including Balmain and Hermès, she decided to bring new elegance and folly to men’s fashion today. With an accent on luxurious materials, Broca revisits the classic male wardrobe and plays with age-old knit techniques (cable stitching, jacquard) throughout. Now, I would have happily unpicked the seams of any piece from the accomplished debut collection but the Teddy Jacket is the real star. Below, we take a closer look at the jacket and talk to the designer herself to see just how the knitwear talent put her stamp on this staple of American sportswear...

SS: How did you go about stamping your take on this staple of American sportswear?

Garance Broca: Making this piece in a soft and shiny Superfine Alpaca fabric has made it more sophisticated with a fine touch of tradition, also with the wooden buttons. It has the look of American sportwear but it is more like a little jacket or a cardigan. The fit is less chunky and less rigid.

SS: Could you talk us through some of the technical processes and people involved in making the jacket?

Garance Broca: I’ve tried a number of different knit techniques to have some of the traditional fitting. I wanted a slim fit but with chunkier sleeves. Also, to add a hint of classic knitwear, I added a cable in the back.

SS: Did you encounter any problems? How were they resolved?

Garance Broca: For the body part, I wanted a more elaborate stitch but it would have made the style too thick. Also, the contrast with the sleeves was not troublesome so in the end I decided that the simpleness of a reverse jersey would be both nice and light whilst the contrast with the full needle sleeves could be more relevant.

SS: Like all good menswear, the jacket oozes details. What are you favourites?

Garance Broca: I think my favorite is the cable in the back. This jacket is already strong as it is but the addition of the cable knit is the last detail that really makes a statement and declares 'I am knitted'!"

SS: How would you describe the finished piece in your own words?

Garance Broca: This is a piece where you can fell both different and safe. The look is totally trendy but the details of the wood buttons or cable at the back make it really special and unique, and ultimately make it Monsieur Lacenaire!

---------

"I love this jacket because it represent what is the new menswear : both casual and chic. It’s completely casual because it refers to college boy and sport; but in the meantime, it has become a classic item and it represent a high level class in America, so it can be seen as chic."

Garance Broca on her love for the Teddy Jacket

Look book shots courtesy of Monsieur Lacenaire

----------

'Classics with a twist' is one of those throwaway phrases (by designers and journalists alike) that is so over used that I'm loathed to ever use it on the pages of this blog. However, Monsieur Lacenaire's debut offering is one of those odd occasions where nothing else will do. As Broco reimagines wardrobe staples like the classic Varsity, there is a display of welcome playfulness and a covetable depth of detail. 

Now, we were not the only one to fall for the knitted charms of its debut with Selectism being one of the first blogs (way back in April) to shine the spotlight on the label and key retail locations snapping up the label. Mr Porter and Colette have both swooped and picked up key pieces for the winter season, including the Teddy Jacket.

Details... Unexpected sunshine

Most of us have given up on a great British Summer but that shouldn't stop you injecting a little sunshine in to your daily wardrobe. On yet another unpredictable day of showers and blue skies, Andrew Chidgey did just that...

A spot of DIY. The addition of yellow leather elbow patches transform an old jacket.

A pair of classic Monkey boots with yellow laces and stitching.

Details... Unexpected sunshine

Most of us have given up on a great British Summer but that shouldn't stop you injecting a little sunshine in to your daily wardrobe. On yet another unpredictable day of showers and blue skies, Andrew Chidgey did just that...

A spot of DIY. The addition of yellow leather elbow patches transform an old jacket.

A pair of classic Monkey boots with yellow laces and stitching.

Details... Unexpected sunshine

Most of us have given up on a great British Summer but that shouldn't stop you injecting a little sunshine in to your daily wardrobe. On yet another unpredictable day of showers and blue skies, Andrew Chidgey did just that...

A spot of DIY. The addition of yellow leather elbow patches transform an old jacket.

A pair of classic Monkey boots with yellow laces and stitching.

Unpicking the seams... Lou Dalton's White Noise knit

We are consistently inundated with collection unveilings and product drops. At times it feels as though our screens become a conveyor belt. A blur of items that leave us oohing, aaahing, reaching for our wallet or scratching our head in disbelief. However, the incessant pace of it all is often to the detriment of the product. With our latest feature series, Unpicking the seams, we want to celebrate and focus on the deserving. The series will take a deep breath and showcase our favourite items from each season and even take the odd look back. With a new season fast approaching (with August days that are more at home during October) and our love of a good knit, we kick it off with a longing look at a real highlight from Lou Dalton.

----------

From the frustrated and disillusioned Seattle scene through to the discomforting ruthlessness of the Russian criminal underworld, Lou Dalton was influenced by feelings of discomfort and a desire to fit in for AW11. As a designer, Dalton is concerned with colour, texture, quality and finish and here, she continued to practice and hone her signature of rebellious English sportswear with a strong sense of detail. As always with this exciting design talent, knitwear is a key facet of the collection and here it is oversized to soften and texture to the tailoring. One of the real highlights was this fantastic heavy-gauge marl knit nicknamed white noise.

"Internally the piece was given the name of "WHITE NOISE", my fellas brother was in the studio one night as we were working our way through various swatches of knit, his reaction was spot on to what eventually became this sweater, "That looks like white noise....." and that was really the starting point. I do like a melange knit however; a standard melange is quite consistent throughout, I wanted this to be a little ad-hoc a little home made." Lou Dalton on the starting point of the knit.

The high neck and oversized shape do just that. Inspiration came from classic Melange knitwear, a very old crudely knitted scarf that the designer found and sweaters worn by the likes of Kurt Cobain during the height of the Seattle scene. Once Dalton has an idea of where she is going in terms of concept and design, she meets with the knitwear factory where this information is relayed, various swatches are requested to cover both the design and tension of knit required. Once approved, the sampling trials begin before a finished piece emerges.

"As I am not a trained knitwear designer but do have a good understanding of what I like and what technically works in terms of construction and knit. I start with the yarn research, I work with various yarn suppliers from the UK through to Italy, I will request yarn cards, along side of this I will research and look at a variation of knit techniques and stitches that I feel are relevant to the aesthetic that we are working on for the season as well as looking at vintage finds and contemporary knits. It is also very important for me to remind myself of what historically has worked for us in terms of sales etc. This particular exercise is possibly the most important part of the process, to try and nail what your consumer will relate to is key." Lou Dalton on the design process.

Since the labels inception in 2005, Lou Dalton has designed her collections with the same man in mind and has built up a strong following with the help of key early stockists including Daniel Jenkins and oki-ni. This season, Lou’s hard work and well crafted menswear has been given the recognition it deserves with a place in the well stocked shelves of Liberty's menswear basement space. The more men who discover this design talent the better. With the white noise sweater now in store, I jumped at the chance to try it on for size...

A closer look at Lou Dalton's White Noise Knit.

We'll leave you with Dalton's succinct description of the item, "WHITE NOISE....... 100% lambswool Crew neck sweater..... on sale at Liberty."

----------

Unpicking the seams... Lou Dalton's White Noise knit

We are consistently inundated with collection unveilings and product drops. At times it feels as though our screens become a conveyor belt. A blur of items that leave us oohing, aaahing, reaching for our wallet or scratching our head in disbelief. However, the incessant pace of it all is often to the detriment of the product. With our latest feature series, Unpicking the seams, we want to celebrate and focus on the deserving. The series will take a deep breath and showcase our favourite items from each season and even take the odd look back. With a new season fast approaching (with August days that are more at home during October) and our love of a good knit, we kick it off with a longing look at a real highlight from Lou Dalton.

----------

From the frustrated and disillusioned Seattle scene through to the discomforting ruthlessness of the Russian criminal underworld, Lou Dalton was influenced by feelings of discomfort and a desire to fit in for AW11. As a designer, Dalton is concerned with colour, texture, quality and finish and here, she continued to practice and hone her signature of rebellious English sportswear with a strong sense of detail. As always with this exciting design talent, knitwear is a key facet of the collection and here it is oversized to soften and texture to the tailoring. One of the real highlights was this fantastic heavy-gauge marl knit nicknamed white noise.

"Internally the piece was given the name of "WHITE NOISE", my fellas brother was in the studio one night as we were working our way through various swatches of knit, his reaction was spot on to what eventually became this sweater, "That looks like white noise....." and that was really the starting point. I do like a melange knit however; a standard melange is quite consistent throughout, I wanted this to be a little ad-hoc a little home made." Lou Dalton on the starting point of the knit.

The high neck and oversized shape do just that. Inspiration came from classic Melange knitwear, a very old crudely knitted scarf that the designer found and sweaters worn by the likes of Kurt Cobain during the height of the Seattle scene. Once Dalton has an idea of where she is going in terms of concept and design, she meets with the knitwear factory where this information is relayed, various swatches are requested to cover both the design and tension of knit required. Once approved, the sampling trials begin before a finished piece emerges.

"As I am not a trained knitwear designer but do have a good understanding of what I like and what technically works in terms of construction and knit. I start with the yarn research, I work with various yarn suppliers from the UK through to Italy, I will request yarn cards, along side of this I will research and look at a variation of knit techniques and stitches that I feel are relevant to the aesthetic that we are working on for the season as well as looking at vintage finds and contemporary knits. It is also very important for me to remind myself of what historically has worked for us in terms of sales etc. This particular exercise is possibly the most important part of the process, to try and nail what your consumer will relate to is key." Lou Dalton on the design process.

Since the labels inception in 2005, Lou Dalton has designed her collections with the same man in mind and has built up a strong following with the help of key early stockists including Daniel Jenkins and oki-ni. This season, Lou’s hard work and well crafted menswear has been given the recognition it deserves with a place in the well stocked shelves of Liberty's menswear basement space. The more men who discover this design talent the better. With the white noise sweater now in store, I jumped at the chance to try it on for size...

A closer look at Lou Dalton's White Noise Knit.

We'll leave you with Dalton's succinct description of the item, "WHITE NOISE....... 100% lambswool Crew neck sweater..... on sale at Liberty."

----------

Unpicking the seams... Lou Dalton's White Noise knit

We are consistently inundated with collection unveilings and product drops. At times it feels as though our screens become a conveyor belt. A blur of items that leave us oohing, aaahing, reaching for our wallet or scratching our head in disbelief. However, the incessant pace of it all is often to the detriment of the product. With our latest feature series, Unpicking the seams, we want to celebrate and focus on the deserving. The series will take a deep breath and showcase our favourite items from each season and even take the odd look back. With a new season fast approaching (with August days that are more at home during October) and our love of a good knit, we kick it off with a longing look at a real highlight from Lou Dalton.

----------

From the frustrated and disillusioned Seattle scene through to the discomforting ruthlessness of the Russian criminal underworld, Lou Dalton was influenced by feelings of discomfort and a desire to fit in for AW11. As a designer, Dalton is concerned with colour, texture, quality and finish and here, she continued to practice and hone her signature of rebellious English sportswear with a strong sense of detail. As always with this exciting design talent, knitwear is a key facet of the collection and here it is oversized to soften and texture to the tailoring. One of the real highlights was this fantastic heavy-gauge marl knit nicknamed white noise.

"Internally the piece was given the name of "WHITE NOISE", my fellas brother was in the studio one night as we were working our way through various swatches of knit, his reaction was spot on to what eventually became this sweater, "That looks like white noise....." and that was really the starting point. I do like a melange knit however; a standard melange is quite consistent throughout, I wanted this to be a little ad-hoc a little home made." Lou Dalton on the starting point of the knit.

The high neck and oversized shape do just that. Inspiration came from classic Melange knitwear, a very old crudely knitted scarf that the designer found and sweaters worn by the likes of Kurt Cobain during the height of the Seattle scene. Once Dalton has an idea of where she is going in terms of concept and design, she meets with the knitwear factory where this information is relayed, various swatches are requested to cover both the design and tension of knit required. Once approved, the sampling trials begin before a finished piece emerges.

"As I am not a trained knitwear designer but do have a good understanding of what I like and what technically works in terms of construction and knit. I start with the yarn research, I work with various yarn suppliers from the UK through to Italy, I will request yarn cards, along side of this I will research and look at a variation of knit techniques and stitches that I feel are relevant to the aesthetic that we are working on for the season as well as looking at vintage finds and contemporary knits. It is also very important for me to remind myself of what historically has worked for us in terms of sales etc. This particular exercise is possibly the most important part of the process, to try and nail what your consumer will relate to is key." Lou Dalton on the design process.

Since the labels inception in 2005, Lou Dalton has designed her collections with the same man in mind and has built up a strong following with the help of key early stockists including Daniel Jenkins and oki-ni. This season, Lou’s hard work and well crafted menswear has been given the recognition it deserves with a place in the well stocked shelves of Liberty's menswear basement space. The more men who discover this design talent the better. With the white noise sweater now in store, I jumped at the chance to try it on for size...

A closer look at Lou Dalton's White Noise Knit.

We'll leave you with Dalton's succinct description of the item, "WHITE NOISE....... 100% lambswool Crew neck sweater..... on sale at Liberty."

----------

COS AW11

The role of the high street in my everyday wardrobe has been in steady decline in recent years. Aside from the regular splurge on basics in Uniqlo, I have often found myself frustrated by the lack of options in stores that used to offer so much. Now, hopeful shopping jaunts to central leave me feeling somewhat alienated and past my prime. The harder I try to unearth a bargain in these fluorescent light filled spaces the more I question and bemoan what the high street has become. Surely it should offer more than just  throwaway staples? There has been one glimmer of light with the introduction of COS. Unlike many of its competitors, it has never felt the need to fill out a tick sheet of trends with the unveiling of each season. Since it opened its door on Regent Street back in 2007 the store has strived to fill the void between the high street and high end design. However, I would say that it has been far more successful with its womenswear design. Over the course of the last few seasons I have questioned the design balance between its two offerings but AW11 is a season of welcome parity.

Taking inspiration from geometrics and architecture, the AW11 collection offers a clean and understated look that is so typical of COS. However, the signature style has evolved through a fascination of vintage ski and sportswear. With appreciative nods to Simons and Zuchelli, highlight pieces incorporate bonded foamy fabrics and neoprene to stunning effect whilst the autumnal friendly hues that hum throughout leave me reaching for my wallet. The aforementioned glimmer of hope just got brighter...

Look book images courtesy of COS.

As the collection begins to trickle on to the shop floor, we sat with COS' Head of Menswear design, Martin Anderson to learn more about the inspiration behind it and his thoughts on the stores position within the market...

SS: What was the starting point for AW11?

Martin Andersson: We began by studying the architecture and interior design of pre-fabricated Swiss ski chalets which led us to vintage ski and sportswear. These influences can be seen throughout the collection, from our trousers which are reminiscent of ski pants, knitwear featuring turtlenecks and padded detailing and quilted soft leather gloves.

The sporty influence is balanced with a modern and minimal preppy edge. For this we looked at vintage Ivy League garments and updated these with modern fabrics and colours. This inspiration is most evident through our range of college sweaters that have been re-created in super modern boiled wools and Milano ribs.

SS: What drew you to the work of Alice Neel and how did it influence the designs?

Martin Andersson: We were drawn to the paintings of the twentieth century artist Alice Neel when looking at the concept of modern preppy dressing as she captures American mid-century dressing beautifully throughout her work. We were also inspired by her use of colour featuring sober shades of aubergine, chalk, charcoal and navy throughout our autumn winter collection.

SS: The fabrics this season are particularly interesting with a mix of tech and sportswear which are used to create pieces that feel both modern and retro. Could you talk us through some of the key fabrications?

Martin Andersson: We feature a lot of bonded foamy fabrics which have technical and sporty qualities. Neoprene is used for various garments, as are futuristic fleeces, unwashed rigid denim and compact poplins for clean, minimal shirts.

SS: What are you most looking forward to integrating in to your own AW wardrobe?

Martin Andersson: A neoprene coat we have in bright orange; it is a classic and preppy car coat shape that has been updated with the choice of fabric and colour. I also love the tailored coat and suit we have designed in grey melange wool; it is a sculptural and modern take on the traditional cloth which feels very luxurious.

SS: How would you describe COS' position on the high street? What are your hopes for the future?

Martin Andersson: We have been told in the past that we have filled a gap between the high street and high end design. Fortunately we have received an extremely positive reaction from customers to date and hope to continue this in the future.

----------

To mark the launch of the collection, COS have commissioned the London based filmmaker and photographer Tyrone Lebone to produce a film of their men’s and women’s wear autumn winter 2011 look book. The film evokes a sense of the COS aesthetic for this season by representing the concept of the new modern woman and man. Combining the models strong movements with soft touches it highlights the texture and shape of the garments beautifully. Here's an exclusive look at COS' man for AW11... 

COS AW11

The role of the high street in my everyday wardrobe has been in steady decline in recent years. Aside from the regular splurge on basics in Uniqlo, I have often found myself frustrated by the lack of options in stores that used to offer so much. Now, hopeful shopping jaunts to central leave me feeling somewhat alienated and past my prime. The harder I try to unearth a bargain in these fluorescent light filled spaces the more I question and bemoan what the high street has become. Surely it should offer more than just  throwaway staples? There has been one glimmer of light with the introduction of COS. Unlike many of its competitors, it has never felt the need to fill out a tick sheet of trends with the unveiling of each season. Since it opened its door on Regent Street back in 2007 the store has strived to fill the void between the high street and high end design. However, I would say that it has been far more successful with its womenswear design. Over the course of the last few seasons I have questioned the design balance between its two offerings but AW11 is a season of welcome parity.

Taking inspiration from geometrics and architecture, the AW11 collection offers a clean and understated look that is so typical of COS. However, the signature style has evolved through a fascination of vintage ski and sportswear. With appreciative nods to Simons and Zuchelli, highlight pieces incorporate bonded foamy fabrics and neoprene to stunning effect whilst the autumnal friendly hues that hum throughout leave me reaching for my wallet. The aforementioned glimmer of hope just got brighter...

Look book images courtesy of COS.

As the collection begins to trickle on to the shop floor, we sat with COS' Head of Menswear design, Martin Anderson to learn more about the inspiration behind it and his thoughts on the stores position within the market...

SS: What was the starting point for AW11?

Martin Andersson: We began by studying the architecture and interior design of pre-fabricated Swiss ski chalets which led us to vintage ski and sportswear. These influences can be seen throughout the collection, from our trousers which are reminiscent of ski pants, knitwear featuring turtlenecks and padded detailing and quilted soft leather gloves.

The sporty influence is balanced with a modern and minimal preppy edge. For this we looked at vintage Ivy League garments and updated these with modern fabrics and colours. This inspiration is most evident through our range of college sweaters that have been re-created in super modern boiled wools and Milano ribs.

SS: What drew you to the work of Alice Neel and how did it influence the designs?

Martin Andersson: We were drawn to the paintings of the twentieth century artist Alice Neel when looking at the concept of modern preppy dressing as she captures American mid-century dressing beautifully throughout her work. We were also inspired by her use of colour featuring sober shades of aubergine, chalk, charcoal and navy throughout our autumn winter collection.

SS: The fabrics this season are particularly interesting with a mix of tech and sportswear which are used to create pieces that feel both modern and retro. Could you talk us through some of the key fabrications?

Martin Andersson: We feature a lot of bonded foamy fabrics which have technical and sporty qualities. Neoprene is used for various garments, as are futuristic fleeces, unwashed rigid denim and compact poplins for clean, minimal shirts.

SS: What are you most looking forward to integrating in to your own AW wardrobe?

Martin Andersson: A neoprene coat we have in bright orange; it is a classic and preppy car coat shape that has been updated with the choice of fabric and colour. I also love the tailored coat and suit we have designed in grey melange wool; it is a sculptural and modern take on the traditional cloth which feels very luxurious.

SS: How would you describe COS' position on the high street? What are your hopes for the future?

Martin Andersson: We have been told in the past that we have filled a gap between the high street and high end design. Fortunately we have received an extremely positive reaction from customers to date and hope to continue this in the future.

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To mark the launch of the collection, COS have commissioned the London based filmmaker and photographer Tyrone Lebone to produce a film of their men’s and women’s wear autumn winter 2011 look book. The film evokes a sense of the COS aesthetic for this season by representing the concept of the new modern woman and man. Combining the models strong movements with soft touches it highlights the texture and shape of the garments beautifully. Here's an exclusive look at COS' man for AW11... 

COS AW11

The role of the high street in my everyday wardrobe has been in steady decline in recent years. Aside from the regular splurge on basics in Uniqlo, I have often found myself frustrated by the lack of options in stores that used to offer so much. Now, hopeful shopping jaunts to central leave me feeling somewhat alienated and past my prime. The harder I try to unearth a bargain in these fluorescent light filled spaces the more I question and bemoan what the high street has become. Surely it should offer more than just  throwaway staples? There has been one glimmer of light with the introduction of COS. Unlike many of its competitors, it has never felt the need to fill out a tick sheet of trends with the unveiling of each season. Since it opened its door on Regent Street back in 2007 the store has strived to fill the void between the high street and high end design. However, I would say that it has been far more successful with its womenswear design. Over the course of the last few seasons I have questioned the design balance between its two offerings but AW11 is a season of welcome parity.

Taking inspiration from geometrics and architecture, the AW11 collection offers a clean and understated look that is so typical of COS. However, the signature style has evolved through a fascination of vintage ski and sportswear. With appreciative nods to Simons and Zuchelli, highlight pieces incorporate bonded foamy fabrics and neoprene to stunning effect whilst the autumnal friendly hues that hum throughout leave me reaching for my wallet. The aforementioned glimmer of hope just got brighter...

Look book images courtesy of COS.

As the collection begins to trickle on to the shop floor, we sat with COS' Head of Menswear design, Martin Anderson to learn more about the inspiration behind it and his thoughts on the stores position within the market...

SS: What was the starting point for AW11?

Martin Andersson: We began by studying the architecture and interior design of pre-fabricated Swiss ski chalets which led us to vintage ski and sportswear. These influences can be seen throughout the collection, from our trousers which are reminiscent of ski pants, knitwear featuring turtlenecks and padded detailing and quilted soft leather gloves.

The sporty influence is balanced with a modern and minimal preppy edge. For this we looked at vintage Ivy League garments and updated these with modern fabrics and colours. This inspiration is most evident through our range of college sweaters that have been re-created in super modern boiled wools and Milano ribs.

SS: What drew you to the work of Alice Neel and how did it influence the designs?

Martin Andersson: We were drawn to the paintings of the twentieth century artist Alice Neel when looking at the concept of modern preppy dressing as she captures American mid-century dressing beautifully throughout her work. We were also inspired by her use of colour featuring sober shades of aubergine, chalk, charcoal and navy throughout our autumn winter collection.

SS: The fabrics this season are particularly interesting with a mix of tech and sportswear which are used to create pieces that feel both modern and retro. Could you talk us through some of the key fabrications?

Martin Andersson: We feature a lot of bonded foamy fabrics which have technical and sporty qualities. Neoprene is used for various garments, as are futuristic fleeces, unwashed rigid denim and compact poplins for clean, minimal shirts.

SS: What are you most looking forward to integrating in to your own AW wardrobe?

Martin Andersson: A neoprene coat we have in bright orange; it is a classic and preppy car coat shape that has been updated with the choice of fabric and colour. I also love the tailored coat and suit we have designed in grey melange wool; it is a sculptural and modern take on the traditional cloth which feels very luxurious.

SS: How would you describe COS' position on the high street? What are your hopes for the future?

Martin Andersson: We have been told in the past that we have filled a gap between the high street and high end design. Fortunately we have received an extremely positive reaction from customers to date and hope to continue this in the future.

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To mark the launch of the collection, COS have commissioned the London based filmmaker and photographer Tyrone Lebone to produce a film of their men’s and women’s wear autumn winter 2011 look book. The film evokes a sense of the COS aesthetic for this season by representing the concept of the new modern woman and man. Combining the models strong movements with soft touches it highlights the texture and shape of the garments beautifully. Here's an exclusive look at COS' man for AW11...